HY RU EN
Asset 3

Loading

End of content No more pages to load

Your search did not match any articles

The Forgotten of Aleppo’s Hotel Baron

By Flavia Amabile 

‘Madame Flavia, Syria is finished, Aleppo is finished’. Armen Mazloumian pauses, maybe following a flashing thought. An ominous silence’s spreading all around: in Aleppo Baron Street has always been a busy road, crowded and jammed night and day, in the very heart of Aleppo, a five minute walk from the suq. Today it is a still street, totally mute but for the frequent clashes in the surroundings and for the noise of the loyalist troops headquartered nearby to protect the area.   

The Baron’s Hotel stands there, in the middle of the street as it does since 1911, when it opened its doors. Founded by Armen Mazloumian, the grandfather of the present owner, it gave its name to the street, a tribute and a homage since everyone knows it: Barons’ history mirrors Syria’s history. And everyone looks at the future of the hotel to understand the future of the country. It was a place of culture and power when Syria was a place of culture and power. T.H. Lawrence would have never slept anywhere else when he came back from his tours officially devoted to archaeological sites, actually following his role as intelligence officer and military adviser in the Middle East. The souvenirs of his stay at Baron’s lie in the hall on the right just after the entrance: sheets of paper of a wrong bill, letters, and pictures. Now the hall is closed, windows glasses were broken one week ago by the last grenade that went off in the street. It’s almost two years since when someone nosed around the precious showcase to look at the tiny calligraphy of the Englishman that wanted to lead the Arab revolt.  

The opposite door opens on the Baron’s bar, a kind of a tale among travelers in the past. Everyone stopped and astonished at its amazing British countryside furniture. No one ever saw anything of the kind in the very heart of Middle East.  

Sunk in the armchair in the right corner Agatha Christie wrote “Murder on The Orient-Express” during the 30s. In the following years people came from every corner of the world to grip that peculiar touch of the room. Today the most famous lounge hall among travelers and archaeologists of last century is closed, barred, and its windows blown to pieces too. ‘No one has ever tried to attack us – Armen Mazloumian tells – loyalist troops defend the street’. But who will protect them from bomb blasts? ‘Half of Alep fled to escape the fighting, the suq was pillaged and sacked, the Citadel damaged’. Who had the chance fled months ago when borders were open and streets safe. Armen remained. The hotel leans entirely on his shoulder. Koko, his father, the man that turned the Baron’s into one of the most charming hotels in Middle East, passed away. Sally, his mother, is a 92 years old lady , mostly spent reaching for a dream never come true. In 1945 she was a young, beautiful fleeing to leave London bombs behind. She was looking for a free and safe land and happened in Alep where she hoped to begin a new life, unaware that she’d meet again the nightmare from which she was running away 60 years before.  

It’s not easy to live these days in this sad town, once one of the main center of trades on the Silk Road. Sally doesn’t get out since long. Armen is an aging man, some serious diseases affect him and his medicines stock is running out. He too doesn’t go out, his legs can’t run anymore and flee to safety in case of bombings. A young boy helps him wandering in quest for food in the few stores still open. Armen can hardly go upstairs, to the first floor. 

The most imposing rooms are located there, the ones furnished with the fine hand-woven carpets collected by his grandfather in the beginning of XX century. Those are the rooms where guests such as Charles De Gaulle and Rockefeller slept. And the rooms where thousands of Armenians were saved in those years during the genocide committed by the Young Turks. And where were kept important documents definitely supporting the historical reconstruction of the Armenian genocide. For more than a century Middle East history has been parading on the Baron Hotel’s  terrace and its fate depicted Syria’s destiny. 

In the next future Armen most urgent worry is to find some wooden planks to protect the hotel’s windows from grenades that will surely blast or where to find fuel to face the coming winter. This is Baron’s destiny now, served with the unpleasant feeling that this could be the last chapter of Baron’s and Syria book. «Madame Flavia, it’s all finished», he repeats and the same unsetting silence spreads again all around.   

(La STAMPA, October 25, 2012)

Comments (18)

Victoria Butler-Sloss
Hello I am writing my second novel set in Aleppo and I am trying to find a date of birth for Koko Mazloumian. Thank you!
Kate Norbury
Dear Nareg Momdjian, I stayed at the Baron Hotel several times in 1995, and met Koko, Sally and Armen then. Would it be possible to have your email address as I'm writing a non-fiction book and very much wanted to connect with you over a couple of factual points. Thank-you, Kate.
Angelyn Esders
We stayed at the Baron Hotel in summer 1998. My husband always remembers his wonderful chat with the proprietor. We had such a good visit in Syria, due to the kindness of the Syrians. We always planned to return in cooler weather as the great heat of summer exhausted us. Perhaps this will never be. Fondest memories of sleeping inside the theatre of Bosra, the star showers and the screech owls,
Brian McMillan
There is an article published in the Daily Mail in November 2014 which shows Armen, alive and sitting on the terrace of the Hotel Baron
Brian McMillan
No news is good news (I really need to believe that) :-(
gailca
Heartbreaking. Any news at all about the owners and other staff?
John
Unfortunately much of it has been destroyed. All that remains is the shell is what once was.
paul
Anyone tried calling. I stayed there 2012 at the start of the war +963 21 210 880
Brian McMillan
I worry about Sally and Armenia. Does anyone have any news of them?
Vittorio D'Orazio
Flavia I read your book about the Baron's and have been there many times in the past years but I am just sad and depressed for what is happening in Syria right now. Just seen the video from Krak and posted on FB to circulate how human madness can go so far! I was looking to know if the Baron's is still there. Please, send my regards and very best good luck to Mr Armen and tell him that he should not give up hope, there are so many people around the globe that love that place and when the war will be over we all will be happy to help out and give a contribution!!!
James
My wife and I stayed here in 2009. We fell completely in love with the place. The staff (particularly Walid) were so kind to us. I would like to know what has happened to the staff who did not stay behind, I pray they are safe and well. God willing, one day the hotel will reopen and the staff who made it so welcoming will feel safe enough to return.
Helen
This is such a tragic and dirty war. I stayed at the Hotel Baron in Jan 2010 and Armen Mazloumian and his Mother Sally were so kind. It is a repository of history and even back then Armen was struggling with the difficulties of keeping this Hotel going. Whoever finally becomes the new rulers of Syria will be judged by their tolerance and cultivation to understand the rich and mixed cultural heritage that is Syria. I fear that the proxy war being fought by some of the big powers are responsible for the increasing radicalisation of some of the fighters who will not tolerate minorities in the future. It is a terrible shame as in the Balkans those who seek to gain through religious intolerance and bigotry should not become the leaders of Syria. Human rights violations are happening within the FSA and the regime. History will not judge those of us who could have done something but did not because of a cynical self interest.
John Griffiths
I stayed at the Baron some 15 years ago. I remember it and its staff with utter fondness. I hope it will reopen soon, and thrive, in times of peace. It is part of world culture.
Hstanhope
Absolutely heartbreaking. I stayed at the Baron in the Spring of 2001 and was utterly captivated by it. My fervent hope is that the family and its employees will be safe and one day the hotel will reopen in a peaceful, democratic Syria.
Nareg Momdjian
I am sad to report to you all that Armen Mazloumian passed away this month. Sally Mazloumian also passed away peacefully in 2014. Armen was my uncle and Sally was my grandmother.
heinz josef
waren im jahr 1974 im Hotel baron zur damaligen zeit top haben uns sehr wohl gefühlt wenn wir heute bilder von aleppo im fernsehen gucken, kommen uns die tränen
Brian McMillan
I keep popping back but no news, so sad :-)
nicola anderson
I, too, was wonderiing how these lovely people were faring. My family and I stayed here in November 2009 and it was one of the most magical experiences we had on a global trek that year. I will never forget Armen driving us to the airport in his wonderful old car, beeping the horn as he chanted my 3 year old son's name! My son ADORED it and still talks about it. So sad to think of what's happening in that beautiful country where the people were so warm and friendly.

Write a comment

If you found a typo you can notify us by selecting the text area and pressing CTRL+Enter