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Agn – Churches, Monasteries, and Holy Sites

Author: Khazhak Drampyan

This article is an attempt to describe, outline, and present to the reader the monasteries, churches, and pilgrimage sites located in the Armenian and the Hay-horom (Armenians who belonged the Greek Orthodox denomination) towns and villages of the Kaza of Agn, itself located in the Province of Kharpert (Harput). The information presented in this article was preserved and provided to us mainly by folklorists, geographers, and clerics who were natives of Agn, as well as foreign travelers who visited the area. For the sake of convenience, we have categorized the information according to locale. The research outlined in this article focused specifically on the history of the religious sites located in the City of Agn, Abouchekh, Charaz, Gamaragab, Garoushla, Areki, Narver, Lidj (Lidjk), Penga (Pingian), Araga, as well as the Armenian Hay-horom villages of the Agn area (Vank, Tsorga, Mousheghga, and Shrzou).

City of Agn

The City of Agn was located at a latitude of 39°29’ east and a longitude of 39°15’ north, at an altitude of 1,018 meters above sea level.

In the north, the city began near the Sandek Baghlar neighborhood, and stretched alongside the Euphrates River all the way to the villages of Areki and Gamaragab. The boulder of Gamaragab was considered to be the boundary of the city. 

The City of Agn had three churches – The Holy Virgin, Saint Kevork, and Saint Hovnan Vosgeperan [golden-tongued]; and six pilgrimage sites – The Waters of Immortality, Saint Hagop, Saint Talalos, Saint Krikor Lusavoritch [Gregory the Illuminator], Luys Aghbyur [Spring of Light], and the Nerses Shnorhali [Nerses the Gracious] Monastery.

The Holy Virgin Church

The Holy Virgin Church was located in the city’s upper neighborhood. It was built of bricks and lime mortar, and featured columns. According to A. Kechian, the church had a length of 27 meters, a width of 20.5 meters, and a height of 10.5 meters. The church was completely renovated in 1840, at the expense of 5,000-6,000 Ottoman pounds. The architect of the church was Father Yeranos, an Armenian priest from Papert. Later, an artist was commissioned to paint images and floral patterns on the church’s walls and ceiling.

The Saint Kevork Church

The Saint Kevork Church was also located in the upper neighborhood of Agn. Construction of the modern building that housed the church began in 1874, and ended in 1876. The church was constructed in the traditional Armenian style, with a domed roof. It had a length of 24 meters, a width of 10 meters at its center, and a height of 10 meters. The diameter of the dome was 12 meters. A total of 6,000 Ottoman pounds were spent to build the church. The architect was Hovhannes Donigian, from the village of Sagham in Palu.

The locals were involved in the construction of both these churches. They carried sand, stones, and other constructional material to the sites. The labor performed by the locals during the construction of each church was calculated at a value of 2,000-3,000 Ottoman pounds.

According to Vidjagakrutyun, the Holy Virgin Church had seven serving clergy, and Saint Kevork had six. In later years, H. Janigian wrote the former had three serving clergy, and the latter had two.

The dome of the Saint Kevork Church was timbered.

According to the Untartsag Oratsuyts [Comprehensive Calendar] of the Saint Savior Hospital of Istanbul, released in 1925, as of 1924, the only Armenian church still standing in Agn was Saint Kevork.

The Saint Hovnan Vosgeperan Church

The Saint Hovnan Vosgeperan Church is mentioned in two 16th century sources. The first of these sources was included is the work Toros Aghpar [Brother Toros] by K.V. Srvantsdyants [9], and dated from 1516. Information regarding the second source was communicated to us by H. Mgrdich Bodourian, from the Frumoasa City in Romania.

Both of these primary sources were written by an author named Mesrob.

According to Gh. Injijian, the Saint Hovnan Vosgeperan Church was reduced to ashes in a fire in the year 1655.

Pilgrimage Sites in the City of Agn

There were many pilgrimage sites scattered across the City of Agn –

  • The Waters of Immortality was a site located to the left of the point of confluence of Medz Tsor and the Euphrates. According to Archbishop Kevork Arslanian, the site was located in the city’s heights.
  • The Saint Hagop Holy Site was located between the City of Agn and the villages of Abucheckh and Gamaragab, near a graveyard. Janigian notes that the name Saint Hagop was given to a large boulder located at the foot of Mount Tashdib [15]. Archbishop Kevork Arslanian, expounding on Janigian’s information, adds that a church named Saint Hagop had once stood near Agn or Kadi Geol (kadi meaning a religious magistrate, and geol meaning lake). At some point, the church was converted into a mosque. However, the church’s old cabinet, containing the clerical vestments and ceremonial vessels, was kept inside this mosque. According to legend, this cabinet remained shut, and nobody was able to open in. In fact, the hands of those who tried to pry it open became withered. To this day, locals do not approach the cabinet, claiming it is cursed. As the mosque’s main gate looked eastwards, the adhan (call to prayer) was performed out of the gate opening onto the road. As for Christian pilgrims, instead of the original site of the Saint Hagop Church, they made their pilgrimages and said their prayers at a large, solid boulder located near the Zinjirli Rock. A popular custom at the pilgrimage site was placing a small rock on top of a larger one. If the smaller rock did not fall off the larger rock, the pilgrims considered their vows to have been accepted by God.
  • Saint Talalos [according to Janigian and A. Kechian], Saint Talalis [according to Vidjagakrutyun], or Saint Tallas [according to Archbishop Kevork Arslanian] was located in the upper neighborhood, in the middle of the graveyard or in a toutloukh (mulberry orchard). According to Vidjagakrutyun [17], the eponymous saint had the power to heal the wounds of those who visited the site. By 1847, the pilgrimage site was listed as being a “church in ruins”.
  • The Saint Krikor Lusavoritch Site was located in the heights of the Areki neighborhood. It consisted of the ruins of a church, built of bricks, and which featured one altar. Services were held at the site on the Feast Day of Saint Krikor Lusavoritch.
  • Luys Agbhyur [Spring of Light] was located across from the City of Agn, in the Tsndzalents gardens.
  • The Nerses Shnorhali Monastery was located at a distance of six to seven hours from the City of Agn, near the Alawite Kurdish village of Gamkhou. The monastery, which did not function as a place of worship, was located in a water-rich field. Only the skeleton of the church building was still standing. Aside from those detailing the traditions associated with the monastery, no other accounts of it have survived. Villagers regularly visited the monastery, where they prostrated themselves before God. These pilgrims came from Agn, as well as from other nearby villages. A plant named manana grew in the fields surrounding the monastery, which the locals neither planted nor harvested. The plant produced seeds that tasted like milk and had a yellow, delicate shell.

Village of Abouchekh

Varaka Saint Nshan Church (Village of Abouchekh)

Abouchekh was one of the largest villages in the Kaza of Agn, located to the southeast of the City of Agn [26]. The locals called the village Ebichekhou, but in formal documents, the name Abouchekh was always used, and it became the prevailing appellation of the village in the 18th century.

The village of Abouchekh had one church, called the Varaka Saint Nshan Church. The church was in existence as early as the 14th century. The church appears in written chronicles beginning in 1651. The following text appears in a Haysmavourk (a hagiographic publication, which lists the details and biographies of saints celebrated in religious ceremonies) from the year 1702: I kyughs Abouchekh, ent hovanyav sourp Asdvadzazin yev pazmacharchar nagadagin sourp Kevorka [In the village of Abouchekh, under the ministry of the Holy Virgin Church and the Saint Kevork Church, the latter named after the saint who underwent much suffering]. However, the Holy Virgin and Saint Kevork churches were located not in the Village of Abouchekh, but in the City of Agn.

The Saint Nshan Church was renovated twice – in 1691, with funding provided by Markar Chobanian; and again in 1706, with funds raised from the public.

The church was home to many handwritten manuscripts, valuable clerical vestments, and silverware, as well as many delicate oil paintings. Among the vestments that had been preserved with care was a very valuable chasuble donated by the Der Boghosents family, and which was later rescued from the calamities of 1915. According to legend, this chasuble had been sewn by seven maidens over a period of seven years. The presiding priest of the church would don this chasuble for Christmas and Easter services. However, in the year 1912, by decision of the village council, the last priest of the village, Father Ardashes Papazian, gathered the valuable vestments, curtains, silverware, manuscripts, and Bibles, and were transported to Istanbul, where the valuable items were placed under the care of the Armenian Patriarchate.

By 1899, the church had lost its former luster and glory. The village priest, Father Hovhannes Nalpantian, burned several paintings, deeming them to have been ruined by the ravages of time.

In 1847, figures indicate that four priests served at the church.

The church was also the repository of a historical chronicle, with entries beginning in the year 1100 of the Armenian calendar (1651 CE). The chronicle details the items that had been donated to the church (vestments, crosses, etc.), as well as the names of the donors. The chronicle was kept until the deportations of 1915. However, as noted in one source, it would have been difficult of the village priest to update the chronicle after the year 1899․

Pilgrimage Sites in the Village of Abouchekh

Gh. Injijian writes that in the 19th century, there were two shrines in ruins located in the Village of Abouchekh – Saint Minas and Saint Sahag [36]. A human hand was dug up in the courtyard of Saint Sahag, and the locals believed that this was the hand of Saint Sahag himself.

According to Vidjagakrutyun of 1847, the village was home to the following pilgrimage sites –

  • The Holy Virgin shrine, also called Akarag.
  • The Saint Minas Shrine.
  • The churches of Saint Toros, Saint Sahag, and Saint Hagop, all in ruins, and located outside the boundaries of the village.

There was yet another church named for Saint Toros in the village, which also served as a pilgrimage site.
H. Janigian, whose information was obtained in the 1880s, only mentions the Saint HagopSaint MinasSaint Sahag, and Saint Toros shrines.

A. Kechian mentions two open-air, single-altar churches. The first was Saint Hagop, which was located in the village graveyard, atop a high hill, and the second was Saint Minas, located in the orchards adjacent to the city.

A. Shepigian lists the following pilgrimage sites –

  • Akrgner, which is the Akarag mentioned in the Vidjagakrutyun of 1847, home to a pilgrimage site in honor of the Holy Virgin. On September 8 of every year (the holiday of the Nativity of Mary), Mass was held at the site. It is supposed that there was once a village near the site – H. Injijian mentions Akarag as one of the Armenian villages of Agn, with a mixed Armenian-Muslim population. This village is also mentioned in the review Yevroba, published in Vienna by the Mkhtarine Order. According to A. Kechian, the village was Islamized and then renamed Arch-Akrag.
  • Saint Hagop: on the holiday of Saint Hagop, the people would visit the site in a large procession, mainly in the evening.
  • Saint Toros: Similar festivities were held at this site.
  • Saint Minas: The people of Abouchekh believed that Saint Minas helped people find what they had lost. Every year, up to 1898, on the Monday following the Feast of Vartavar (Feast of Transfiguration), Holy Mass was held at this site, and participants slaughtered animals in honor of the saint.
    There was another small pilgrimage site adjacent to Saint Minas, called the Sister of Saint Minas.  The site was renowned for curing those who suffered from ailments of the eyes. People washed their eyes with the water of the altar, and tied rags around the branches of the nearby bushes, believing this would cure them [49].  
  • Saint Sahag: Saint Sahag was the healer of the disabled. The locals visited the shrine in the hopes of being cured of their disabilities [50].
  • Saint Toros: Holy Mass was held once a year at this pilgrimage site. In one of his articles, A. Shepigian writes that among the old churches of the Gamaragab and Abouchekh were several shrines bearing the name of Saint Toros, located in graveyards. The Saint Toros Church of Abouchekh was also mentioned by Archbishop Kevork Arslanian․

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