Samuel Armen

It is on this day that our group visited Etchmiadzin, Gayane, Hripsime, and the Sardarabad museum.

The first three sites were expected – my eyes have absorbed hundreds of photographs and paintings of these three churches. The only unexpected quality of these churches is that they are the only sites that I was actually ready for.

The architecture, the large outdoor spaces, the gardens, the priests walking around and talking to tourists, the paintings, the candles, the high ceilings, the light from the windows – it is ACTUALLY all there and absolutely worth a visit. Just remember not to turn your back to the altar as you are exiting, even if there is a new crowd entering.

Though different each in their own way, Etchmiadzin, Gayane and Hripsime are only three of the many ancient churches that Armenians have become martyrs to maintain.

Later in the day we would arrive at Sardarabad (also Sardarapat) – a museum in Armavir, the East-most section of modern Armenia. Our group of Anna, Aline and 21 interns exited the bus, passed by several colossal structures and entered a castle-like museum, finding an English-speaking tour guide waiting for us.

According to her, the museum is dedicated to the Battle of Sardarabad – a battle in May 1918 where the Armenians defeated the invading Turks. "If such a victory did not occur we might not have had our Armenia-" she added as her Russian-accented voice echoed down the stone hallways.

As we walked down the corridors the tour guide showed us ancient and pre-Christian artwork, weapons, clothing, technology, and other structures that were too difficult to classify. One such oddity was a collection of giant, phallic stones which our tour guide explained were meant to induce healthy states of fertility in future mothers.

After circumnavigating and exploring the inner sections of Yerevan, having traveled to Garni and Geghard in the Kotayk Province, and visiting Etchmiadzin, Gayane and Hripsime and the Sardarabad Museum in the Vagharshapat region of the Armavir Province, I came to a sudden realization: Our group was slowly mapping out the land that our ancestral martyrs fought hundreds of battles to preserve.

Whenever exploring new regions, I always have the thought in my head that there is so much land on the planet we live on, and to see a new place, and press your foot on new soil, and breathe in new air is to appreciate the Earth and the history of mankind. Mapping out lands that have histories of struggle, battles, and refuge – where one can picture St. Gregory the Illuminator hiding among mountains, praying to the taboo God of Christianity – are especially enlightening.

It is no secret that Armenia is not the size it once was as a booming empire. This is another reason why when the bus is moving from Garni to Geghard or Etchmiadzin to Sardarabad, I try and keep my eye on the shifting topography. I've always believed that my eyes are records and my mind is a determined historian. Every sight seen and every step taken is another page read, which in turn becomes another page to open, expand and understand in the book of my existence.

One could expect that such an attitude towards exploration would have one enthusiastic for any of our journeys, and thanks to AGBU's YSIP program I had plenty to be excited for:

Soon our group would go to Lake Sevan. We would go to Artsakh (Nogorno Karabagh). We would also visit Karakert, Lernagog, Miasnikian and the villages in the Baghramyan region of Armavir associated with COAF (Children of Armenia Fund). Soon I would go alone to Gyumri, and later WE would go to Gyumri together.

Soon we would go to Tatev (via the largest and most incredible tramway known to man), Khor Virab (The pit where St. Gregory the Illuminator was imprisoned for 13 years by King Tiridates III), Norvabank (with its beautiful red mountains and two scenic churches), Zorats Karer (The Armenian Stone Hedge, also known as Karahunj), Dzidernagapert (The Genocide Monument), and Lermontovo (Antranig Scout Camp near Dilijan). This is just a handful of the locations we visited and would later visit.

I would like to mention here that this list and most of the locations on this list were detailed to me by the one of the interns in our group. With a manner that is both enthusiastic enough to speak and humble enough to shy away from praise, this intern would articulate the importance, the location, the dates, and the people associated with these sites whenever I walked beside him.

One could tell he's a natural historian; his memory becomes adhesive when history is mentioned. This is a quality of his I am grateful for – it's great to see a Diasporan fully immersed in Armenian history and politics. The other interns are also knowledgeable of bulks of our history. I would like to express my sincere gratitude towards him and all the interns – one learns far more being with all of you – especially if one is not fluent in Armenian.