When Dr. Christine Allison isn't attracting stares from Armenians when as she sits speaking fluent Kurmanji Kurdish on her cell phone at a cafe on Yerevan's Republic Square, she's the center of attention in the small Yezidi village of Ortachiya.
I am lying down on a sleeping bag right near the stove. I have two pairs of eyes staring at me: Ocalan's eyes from the right and a young freedom fighter's eyes from the left.